Nepal is a dream destination for mountaineers and trekkers, due to the fact that Nepal holds more than 1300 peaks raging over the elevation of 6000 m. In fact, 8 out of 13 world's highest mountains are in Nepal. Nepal has been a top destination for every adventure enthusiast around the world where you can test your limit of adventure whether it's ground, air, or land sports. Despite other adventure sports, mountain expeditions have been the toughest and most adventurous ones. A successful expedition requires a long path of dedication, hard work, and discipline. Over 1300 peaks in Nepal, only 326 peaks are permitted for expeditions; the rest have been closed due to multiple reasons like cultural, spiritual, and mysterious issues.

There is a long history behind mountaineering expeditions, looking back in time to the British Mount Everest Reconnaissance Expedition Mt. Everest in 1921AD had first attempted to summit Everest however that had become only successful after 1950. The first expedition in history to summit mountain peaks over 8000m was June 3, 1950, when Morris Herzog and Luis Lachine, the French mountaineers, successfully climbed Mt. Annapurna -1. The decade after the first summit on Annapurna-I is said to be the golden age of Mountaineering in Nepal, it’s when all the peaks above 8000 m were successfully climbed for the first time. However the most popular expedition of all time was held on May 29, 1953, when Mr. Tenzing Norge and Sir Edmund Hillary successfully climbed “the top of the world” aka Mt.Everest as today it stands at an astounding elevation of 8848.86m. 

The expedition is the ultimate test of your adventurous ability however depending upon your choice, physical and mental state you can choose the favorable peak for the expedition of a lifetime. Expedition in Nepal can be categorized into three types as:

Category A

22 peaks available to climb as Nepal-foreign bilateral expeditions

Category B

Peaks opened for foreign expedition only after an experience with Nepal held expeditions.

Category C

Unrestricted 22 peaks open to anyone for Nepalese expedition or Nepalese-foreign expeditions with at least 3 Nepali individuals. 

The expedition for foreign as well as Nepalese requires a royalty fee to the government, depending upon the peaks you choose to climb the royalty-free varies. 

There are 20 royalty free peaks for expeditions, 11 peaks with only 25% royalty-fee, the remaining peaks require royalty fee which depends upon the peak you are about to climb, however for most Everest is the dream expedition which requires USD 5000 to USD 11000 depending upon the season of the climb. The details for the royalty fee can be obtained from the Ministry of Tourism and Civil Aviation Nepal.

Expedition in Nepal can be done through only by legal travel or mountaineering .agency permitted by the government of Nepal, no foreign agencies or individuals are permitted to run an expedition, hence you are highly recommended to choose an authentic agency for the expedition or else the Government of Nepal has right to take action against the illegal agencies or individual or the climber himself/herself for choosing the illegal way of the expedition in accordance with article 37 of Mountaineering Regulations 1979. LHN has been operating peak climbing expeditions with proper safety measures and an authentic agency for running expedition agencies in Nepal. There are multiple procedures to be followed before any expedition of any peak. The first is to get permission from Nepal Mountaineering Association, the permit and the royalty fee. The fee will increase by 25% after each week if the permitted days for your expeditions exceed due to any kind of errors or problems, not to forget your fund is not refundable if you wish to cancel the expedition by any kind of issue or problems.

Gears and Equipment for Expedition

Gears and equipment are a vital part of your expeditions besides your physical and mental health. Only genuine equipment is strongly advised to purchase because it defines the safety of your life and a successful expedition. Some of the essential gears and equipment required are:

  • Climbing harness
  • Crampons
  • Ice axe
  • Multi-LED headlight
  • Carabineers
  • Trekking poles
  • Masks, hose, and regulators
  • Climbing helmet

**Note: This is only a general checklist of gears and equipment, you are suggested to do proper research and choose the right gears that are comfortable and safe enough for the expedition ** 

To learn more about Climbing gears, please click here.

Clothing for Expedition

Expedition apparel must be durable enough to withstand harsh weather, difficult terrains, and a variety of unexpected obstacles that may arise along the journey. The following are some of the necessary clothing materials:

  • Insulation Shirts made of merino wool
  • a pair of Merino long-sleeve shirts
  • a single fleece coat
  • One waterproof Gore-Tex hardshell jacket with a wide hood.
  • Lightweight Down jacket 
  • One pair of liner gloves that are lightweight.
  • Wool or synthetic cap that covers your ear
  • Scarf or sleeve around the neck
  • a brimmed sun cap or a ballcap
  • Sunglasses with side shields in the shape of a glacier (2x)
  • Ski goggles (one pair)
  • Briefs made of merino wool
  • For trekking and around camp, one pair of walking trousers.
  • Two pairs of Merino warm bottoms 
  • One pair of thick Merino thermal bottoms
  • One pair of polar fleece jogging pants
  • One pair of (over)trousers or bibs made of Gore-Tex One pair of goose-down bibs or trousers.
  • One pair of plastic boots appropriate for altitudes more than 8000 meters.
  • One pair of decent ankle-supporting leather or synthetic (Gore-Tex) hiking boots
  • For Kathmandu, bring one pair of cross-trainers, running shoes, and/or sandals.
  • Down booties (one pair)
  • a pair of medium-weight poly or wool socks
  • Two pairs of liner socks are included.
  • Lightweight trekking socks (poly or wool) in two pairs
  • In town, light Merino wool or cotton socks are recommended.

**Note: This is a regular checklist of clothes, you are recommended to use clothing that fits you or consult with the guide provided by LHN to you **

Sleeping and Travelling Gear

  • Travel Bags and Rucksacks:
  • Two large (120 l) duffel kit bags for clothing and supplies, one medium rucksack (50-70 l).
  • One high-altitude down sleeping bag (rated to –35 C) (-30 F).
  • One (extra) sleeping bag for base camp (typical temperature range: 15°C to 20°C (-5°F))

**Note: Your sleeping bags should be kept dry using a waterproof stuff sack**

Luxury Holidays Nepal has some elite peak climbing plans with attractive offers and bonuses. Island Peak ExpeditionLobuche East Peak Climbing with Everest Base CampMera peak climbingMt Everest ExpeditionChulu West Peak Climbing, etc are our more popular and most chosen peaks to Climb.

If you are looking for different kinds of Climbing and Expedition in Nepal, feel free to contact us.

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